An early start from Los Arcos saw us walking through another wonderful sunrise. But I had no energy – there’s a lesson here about the need for protein, rather than carbs (paella), for sustained energy. We were making for Viana. As we walked, a light rain started to fall. We …
We were up early and downstairs for a very quick coffee then out the door by 0630. The headlamps worked well, although we nearly missed the first turn. Walking through a spider web convinced us that the woman who left before us must’ve missed the turn too, or at least …
After a wonderful and undisturbed night’s sleep, we headed out early and had a good walk to Estella, where we found an ATM and then a cafe. As we were having breakfast, two Australian friends from Orrisson walked in – of all the cafes they could have chosen, they found …
The magic would come later. Departing Puenta La Reina, we headed out through the 12th Century gate and over the elegant romanesque medieval bridge. There is an inscription marking the opening of the bridge, which reads: El dia 1 de Octobre el anod 1181 llego el rio hastaesa raia which translates …
We descended carefully, as though on marbles and soon left the steel sculptures and windmills behind. We replenished our water bottles at the fountain at Uterga and passed a lovely old gothic church. From Uterga the going became much easier, with the sky overcast for much of the day. Lunch at …
We were up early and left Pamplona by 0630 reaching Cizur Menor in under an hour. Time for coffee and a quick breakfast. Tortilla and coffee – pilgrim fuel. We climbed steadily past the ruins of the 16th century Guenduláin palace, church and pilgrims hospital – a castle/monastery complex once …
Exploring Pamplona They certainly know how to party in Pamplona, though it felt a bit desperate. We heard that Pamplona has festivals just about every week – but I wasn’t sure if it was there for the locals or in an effort to bring in the tourists. We were up early …
Our hostess left us a thermos of coffee on account of our early departure. We set off before dawn, back up the hill and set our sights for Pamplona. We walked alongside the River Arga – a beautiful stream among the green woods. We stopped at Irotz for breakfast – …
Leaving Zubiri, we passed a noisy, dusty manganese processing plant, which supplies to the steel industry, including the arms factory down the road. Some people feel the sights and sounds of industry to be incompatible with the Camino. In reality, industry has sat alongside the spiritual path for millennia. The Romans …
