Burgos — Time to meet the relatives

We walk in deep time, and slow time — writing ourselves into the Camino story

Burgos from Atapuerca

There was a sign in our Albergue to say ‘last person out should turn off the light switch’. Whoever was first out, around 5.00am, missed the light switch and turned off the entire power. So we woke to darkness and no lights or power. No coffee for us this morning! …

To Atapuerca from Villafranca Montes de Oca

Today, we emerged above the clouds encountering a memorial to victims of the Spanish Civil War. Onward past a Camino oasis in the forest and the timeless alchemy of a bar in Agés to a Camino lesson in patience at Atapuerca where humanity’s deep history lies revealed.

Belorado to Villafranca Montes de Oca

Reminded of the importance of communication, we passed a cave hermitage on our way to a town closely related to the Game of the Goose.

Santo Domingo to Belorado

Embarking on a journey across historic Spanish landscapes, we traverse a renovated C11th bridge, reflecting on the walk’s symbolism and past conflicts, including a uniquely settled land dispute near the Cruz de los Valientes. Experiencing local customs and heritage, we reach Belorado, connecting our path to the region’s storied Camino de Santiago and ancient Roman infrastructure, which continues to underpin modern life and community. Our day concludes with rest and a contemplation of the long-lasting importance of roads and networks.

Nájera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada

To get to Santo Domingo de la Calzada, we have 21 kms ahead of us so it’s time for an early start. Out the door at 06.30 AM and straight into a climb as we wound past the cave monastery and onward through a rock cutting.  A bright yellow arrow …

Navarrete to Nájera

We started out from Navarrete with its ancient pilgrim hospital, past Roland’s Hut, the site of a David and Goliath battle between Christians and Moslems, and on to Nájera where a bird and a vision decided the fate of a battle, and a French abbot gave us the first Western translation of the Koran to build better understanding between two great faiths.

Navarrete from Logroño

The council has upgraded the path to Navarrete out of Logroño. I really liked the anamorphic shadows of pilgrims and cyclists painted on the walls of the underpass beneath the road. We passed through the university grounds as we headed out from the city. A shrine stood at the entrance …

Logroño — Time for a Rest Day

Self-care on the Camino is important, and we were both definitely feeling the physical strain. Besides, we needed to stock up on a couple of items and Logroño is a decent-sized town. We went in search of a bag in order to lighten our load. The Pyrenees crossing, and the …