Latin Gregorian chants woke us early and we set off with some enthusiasm in the dark. We nearly lost the trail before we started, but found it by venturing a little further – I need to trust to more distance between markers. Heading uphill (is there any other way in …
The rest day gave us a good opportunity to explore, and to take in the ambience of Logroño – the square providing an endless supply of coffee and street performers. And the Cathedral dominated all from dawn to night. The following morning, we were up very early – 0430 and …
We arose late to a quick non-breakfast at the Albergue and left at 0800am. The weather was kind – overcast and not too hot. Second breakfast was in a picnic area outside the Ermita de la Trinidad de Cuevas beneath a grove of trees. The hermitage was built on …
An early start from Los Arcos saw us walking through another wonderful sunrise. But I had no energy – there’s a lesson here about the need for protein, rather than carbs (paella), for sustained energy. We were making for Viana. As we walked, a light rain started to fall. We …
We were up early and downstairs for a very quick coffee then out the door by 0630. The headlamps worked well, although we nearly missed the first turn. Walking through a spider web convinced us that the woman who left before us must’ve missed the turn too, or at least …
After a wonderful and undisturbed night’s sleep, we headed out early and had a good walk to Estella, where we found an ATM and then a cafe. As we were having breakfast, two Australian friends from Orrisson walked in – of all the cafes they could have chosen, they found …
The magic would come later. Departing Puenta La Reina, we headed out through the 12th Century gate and over the elegant romanesque medieval bridge. There is an inscription marking the opening of the bridge, which reads: El dia 1 de Octobre el anod 1181 llego el rio hastaesa raia which translates …
We descended carefully, as though on marbles and soon left the steel sculptures and windmills behind. We replenished our water bottles at the fountain at Uterga and passed a lovely old gothic church. From Uterga the going became much easier, with the sky overcast for much of the day. Lunch at …
We were up early and left Pamplona by 0630 reaching Cizur Menor in under an hour. Time for coffee and a quick breakfast. Tortilla and coffee – pilgrim fuel. We climbed steadily past the ruins of the 16th century Guenduláin palace, church and pilgrims hospital – a castle/monastery complex once …
