Melide to Arzua and an encounter with raspberries

It was the end of daylight saving, and we awoke to find Dawn almost upon us – an hour earlier than we had expected. So we breakfasted quickly and headed out of town, realising that the kilometres were rapidly counting down. Arzua beckoned. We headed out into majestic woodlands, then …

Camino – Casanova scammers and on to Melide

We left Palas de Rei early, en route to Melide, and we found a cafe open for breakfast. As we left Palas de Rei we passed a pilgrim statue and an ancient cross – we are clearly on the Way as marked out centuries ago. Each farm-house we passed had …

Palas de Rei

Up early, we walked with our headlights on – or rather Sharon did – my headlamp was no longer functioning. On to Palas De Rei (Royal Palace). The moon gave a wan thin smile as the Way climbed yet another Alto, or mountain. The air was crisp and cool and the first …

Off to Hospital – and an encounter with Spanish plumbing

At first light, we departed from Portomarin into the morning mist en route to Hospital (de la Cruz). On the side of the path, we discerned an ancient stone stair among the moss and bracken – it wouldn’t win any prizes in health and safety! Soon we were heading into …

Portomarin – and a moving church

We left Morgade after a hearty breakfast, and farewelled our Belgian friend. We were heading for Portomarin, often spelt Portomarín with the accent on the ‘i’. Off in search of coffee, we passed through amazing tracks lined with ancient dry-stone walls. And delightful paths through tree tunnels with the light of …

Sarria to Morgade

We left Sarria early, en route to Morgade. The town seemed busy, but it was only parents dropping their kids off at the monastery school. It was a reminder of the normal life to which we would soon return. The old cross marked our exit from Sarria and gave reassurance that …

O Cebreiro to Fonfria

The sign at O Cebreiro said we were now only 44kms from Sarria – the start of the homeward run, which in turn is just over 100kms from Santiago de Compostela, and that is the minimum walking distance to achieve the Compostela certificate of completion. Of course, we have already …

Sarria – Beginning of the final leg

Sarria The next significant place was Sarria – 110kms to the end-point. We missed the arrows when coming into Sarria – fortunately, the GPS and map component of the TrekRight app soon saw us back on the path. It is a largish town, and we climbed the hill and steep …

To O Cebreiro – Gateway to Galicia!

Leaving Villafranca del Bierzo On the advice of our friend Lucas we left the palace and headed down to the river valley route to O Cebreiro. We passed a pilgrim statue on the road across the bridge out of Villafranca del Bierzo. On the other side of the river, ancient …