The Fog Watch

Camino 2022: Espinal to Zubiri

We had planned to send our packs ahead for the descent into Zubiri, but when we woke, we were eager to set off and had completely forgotten our plan. We were deep in discussion and walking down the road, when we remembered how treacherous the descent into Zubiri can be. …

Camino 2022: Roncesvalles to Espinal via Burguete

At Roncesvalles, we had a fairly comfortable night in a 4-bunk cubicle. I took the top bunk, with Sharon below. The ladder was a challenge as it sloped in where it joined the lower bunk, so it was a bit like climbing a ladder from underneath. But once up there, …

Camino 2022: St Jean to Roncesvalles

After two days in St Jean Pied de Port, we rose at dawn all packed and ready to go. We set out over the bridge with a quick stop for a selfie at the Virgin’s Gate. The dawn chorus was in full song while the water rushed beneath our feet. …

Camino 2022: The Weight Of Your Pack Is The Sum Of Your Fears

The Camino is both an external and an internal journey. The weight of our pack reflects our concerns as the outer journey reflects the inner one. Today, travel is more comfortable than in times past — and far safer.

Mezquite Cathedral, Cordoba

The Mezquita, or mosque-cathedral in Cordoba, Spain is an extraordinary piece of architecture, symbolising the intermingling of Christian and Islamic culture.

PORTO — Eiffel’s Towering Bridge: Puente Maria Pía

Searching for the Puente Maria Pía, I picked my way along the long-disused and much-overgrown remnants of the railway line. It clung to the steep side of the valley overlooking the Douro River like a shelf on a wall. A light drizzle fell as I lifted my camera to get …

The Camino brings us closer together

Strangers become friends The first night of our first Camino was extraordinary. We had climbed what seemed like an 8km (5 mile) staircase — without the stairs. At Orisson where we had booked to stop for the night, we found ourselves bunked in with another Australian couple and we quickly …

Gutenberg Museum and the Printing Press

The Gutenberg Museum in Mainz, near Frankfurt, Germany presents a wonderful collection spanning the history of printing from its beginnings in Asia to Gutenberg’s press and into the modern era. The collection also houses two 42-line Gutenberg bibles.

The Face of Truth/The Bocca della Verità

The Bocca della Verità is a bit special. In the absence of a handy lie detector, how do you know if someone is being truthful? Trial by ordeal? Convince people that the gods know if you’re being truthful? How could that work? To find out, we need to go to …