There was a sign in our Albergue to say ‘last person out should turn off the light switch’. Whoever was first out, around 5.00am, missed the light switch and turned off the entire power. So we woke to darkness and no lights or power. No coffee for us this morning! …
Today, we emerged above the clouds encountering a memorial to victims of the Spanish Civil War. Onward past a Camino oasis in the forest and the timeless alchemy of a bar in Agés to a Camino lesson in patience at Atapuerca where humanity’s deep history lies revealed.
Reminded of the importance of communication, we passed a cave hermitage on our way to a town closely related to the Game of the Goose.
Embarking on a journey across historic Spanish landscapes, we traverse a renovated C11th bridge, reflecting on the walk’s symbolism and past conflicts, including a uniquely settled land dispute near the Cruz de los Valientes. Experiencing local customs and heritage, we reach Belorado, connecting our path to the region’s storied Camino de Santiago and ancient Roman infrastructure, which continues to underpin modern life and community. Our day concludes with rest and a contemplation of the long-lasting importance of roads and networks.
To get to Santo Domingo de la Calzada, we have 21 kms ahead of us so it’s time for an early start. Out the door at 06.30 AM and straight into a climb as we wound past the cave monastery and onward through a rock cutting. A bright yellow arrow …
We started out from Navarrete with its ancient pilgrim hospital, past Roland’s Hut, the site of a David and Goliath battle between Christians and Moslems, and on to Nájera where a bird and a vision decided the fate of a battle, and a French abbot gave us the first Western translation of the Koran to build better understanding between two great faiths.
The council has upgraded the path to Navarrete out of Logroño. I really liked the anamorphic shadows of pilgrims and cyclists painted on the walls of the underpass beneath the road. We passed through the university grounds as we headed out from the city. A shrine stood at the entrance …
Self-care on the Camino is important, and we were both definitely feeling the physical strain. Besides, we needed to stock up on a couple of items and Logroño is a decent-sized town. We went in search of a bag in order to lighten our load. The Pyrenees crossing, and the …
Our journey has taken us today from Sansol, with its Templar-inspired church, past an ancient farmer’s humble storm shelter. Then to the tomb of the illegitimate son of a Pope. Cesare Borgia rose to become a military General who won back Viana for the Navarrese. We marveled at the technical skills and artistry in the churches. And how those artworks, thinly gilded, have inspired people through the ages to reach for something greater than themselves.
