Paris at Easter

Dawn, and we were up early to get to Notre Dame cathedral. Security was fairly tight, with bag searches before entering the cathedral square. Being early, we were able to get through quickly. With about an hour to go before the Gregorian mass, we perambulated slowly around the interior while the early mass was on.

Time to light a couple of candles for those we have left behind, before finding a seat.

The enormous cathedral filled quickly with probably about 2000 people. It was a little disturbing to see the ‘beware of pickpockets’ signs – but yes even inside the cathedral, and even during mass there are those who seek to take advantage of a crowd.

The music and ceremony were deeply moving. We were immersed in divine singing and bathed in the light from the stained glass windows. Everywhere wisps of incense caught the light creating shafts of colour.

On a previous stay we rented an apartment in the Marais district on the street that was built to house the workers and artisans who created the stained glass back in the C12th-C13th.

Musée Delacroix is just around the corner, so we headed up to check it out. He was a very expressive painter and a leader in the French Romantic movement. His loose brushwork and vibrant use of colour pre-figured the impressionists that came a generation later. It is a small apartment with adjoining studio and garden, and well worth an hour or so. It was interesting to see how he set up a scene with people dressed in exotic Moroccan dress and invited his fellow painters over to tackle the scene in paint. There are photos too of these scenes. To see artists like this use the latest in technology to enhance their art was well worthwhile.

When photography came along, there were real questions about the role of painters now that accurate images could be captured by camera in minutes, rather than captured over days and even months in the case of oils. From this tension -known as the ‘crisis of representation’ – came a rethinking of the role of art to capture the emotional and inner psychological reality, rather than just painting a scene or portrait. Painting and drawing is still a way of looking at and perceiving the world.

We walked up to the Tuileries gardens in the afternoon to sketch the Musée du Louvre. As the weather closed in we called it quits with the under-drawing done, to be inked later and toned in with aquarelle graphite.

It was time for dinner in the Latin quarter once again.

Camino Credential from Notre Dame Paris

We got out early to catch the gregorian Mass at Notre Dame Cathedral. It was breathtaking – and very moving.

We noticed the font in the front of the cathedral with the words: ‘I am the way, travellers are looking for’ – translated into several languages – including Spanish – for which the word ‘way’ translates into the word ‘camino’.


On the spur of the moment, we decided to get our Camino credential from here.

The pilgrim office was located in the side street next to the Cathedral 10, Rue de Cloitre, Paris. The young priest positively beamed as he presented us with our Créanciale – the pilgrim’s credential, and registered that we would commence officially from St Jean Pied de Port, and he directed us to the Cathedral for our first stamp. This credential is required in order to furnish proof that you have completed the journey – you get stamps all along the route as proof you didn’t just fly to Santiago. It was also required to secure pilgrim accommodation and various discounts along the route.

We emerged happy, and went in search of our first stamp. At the cathedral, the previously somewhat grumpy person behind the counter transformed as we presented our credentials. She took great care to make a clear imprint and handed them back to us with a smile, and said ‘Bon chance’ – good luck.

It suddenly hit us that this was real. From this point, we are officially pilgrims, and the enormity of what lay ahead hit like a tonne of bricks – we both teared up, deeply moved. At this moment we had entered a confraternity of pilgrims with a tradition stretching back over 1000 years. It was to be our privilege to walk in their footsteps.14237550_10155103288163238_7560709643255083398_n

We took a moment take it all in, before heading outside into the sunshine. Time for a selfie to commemorate the occasion and then off to find some lunch and a glass of wine to celebrate our new-found status.

Camino credentials

As we walked away from the cathedral, we noticed yellow arrows on the ground – they pointed in the direction of the Church of St James and towards the road route for pilgrims to depart Paris on their age-old journey to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. We would see many more arrows before our journey concluded. Pelerin, peregrino, pilgrim. We are part of a great tradition and a wonderful community.

Was it a religious experience? I’m honestly not sure, but perhaps a sublime one, and a deeply emotional one for us both. Why should I feel so deeply? I profess to be an atheist, comfortable that the laws of physics, of nature take their course, and find it difficult to reconcile with the concept of intelligent design, or a personal god that might take the slightest interest in me. A good friend is fond of saying ‘it is what it is.’ As we progress along this path I shall be exploring what this means. Everone’s experience will be different;  we all walk our own Camino and come at life from our own perspective.

So what is my purpose for the Camino? It is a question I will be asked many times, and will ask of others. I will explore that in another post.



INDEX – If you wish to follow our journey from the beginning, or jump in to any of the Camino posts,
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