Santiago moments, and an encounter with the Botafumeiro

We were looking forward to seeing the famous Botafumeiro, but we wanted to make sure we had our Compostelas, or certificates of completion. So first thing, we headed down to the Pilgrim Office to receive our Compostela – the certificate we receive to mark the conclusion of our pilgrimage. There …

Pedrouzo to Santiago – Arrival at last!

Pedrouzo was shrouded in mist as we set off to reach Santiago de Compostela. Day 41 of our Camino, and it’s All Saints Day. Some time ago we wondered if we could reach Santiago by this date, knowing that it would definitely be a day on which the famous Botafumiero …

Arzua to Pedrouza

On this, our penultimate day on the Camino before reaching Santiago, we are heading for Pedrouzo on a short stage before our final push to our destination. We left town amidst a large group of Belgian school students who were walking from Sarria. One young student spoke with us for part …

Melide to Arzua and an encounter with raspberries

It was the end of daylight saving, and we awoke to find Dawn almost upon us – an hour earlier than we had expected. So we breakfasted quickly and headed out of town, realising that the kilometres were rapidly counting down. Arzua beckoned. We headed out into majestic woodlands, then …

Camino – Casanova scammers and on to Melide

We left Palas de Rei early, en route to Melide, and we found a cafe open for breakfast. As we left Palas de Rei we passed a pilgrim statue and an ancient cross – we are clearly on the Way as marked out centuries ago. Each farm-house we passed had …

Palas de Rei

Up early, we walked with our headlights on – or rather Sharon did – my headlamp was no longer functioning. On to Palas De Rei (Royal Palace). The moon gave a wan thin smile as the Way climbed yet another Alto, or mountain. The air was crisp and cool and the first …

Off to Hospital – and an encounter with Spanish plumbing

At first light, we departed from Portomarin into the morning mist en route to Hospital (de la Cruz). On the side of the path, we discerned an ancient stone stair among the moss and bracken – it wouldn’t win any prizes in health and safety! Soon we were heading into …

Portomarin – and a moving church

We left Morgade after a hearty breakfast, and farewelled our Belgian friend. We were heading for Portomarin, often spelt Portomarín with the accent on the ‘i’. Off in search of coffee, we passed through amazing tracks lined with ancient dry-stone walls. And delightful paths through tree tunnels with the light of …

Sarria to Morgade

We left Sarria early, en route to Morgade. The town seemed busy, but it was only parents dropping their kids off at the monastery school. It was a reminder of the normal life to which we would soon return. The old cross marked our exit from Sarria and gave reassurance that …