To O Cebreiro – Gateway to Galicia!

Leaving Villafranca del Bierzo On the advice of our friend Lucas we left the palace and headed down to the river valley route to O Cebreiro. We passed a pilgrim statue on the road across the bridge out of Villafranca del Bierzo. On the other side of the river, ancient …

Villafranca del Bierzo – and a Camino angel

Once we reached the outer suburbs of Ponferrada we were soon walking past market gardens. We stopped at Columbrianos for coffee, enroute to Villafranca del Bierzo. Then on to Fuentes Nueva (New Fountain) where there was an amazing small church with frescoes painted in the dome and a wonderful altarpiece. …

The descent, then on to Ponferrada

We came down from the Cruz de Ferro. Manjarin – associated since the C12th with the Knights Templar – came slowly into view. We had Ponferrada in mind. I must confess that at first I thought it was a vagrant’s camp with random tattered flags and half-ruined rubble piles with …

Cruz de Ferro – a poignant moment

As the sun came up beneath an overcast sky, we set off from Rabanal del Camino en route to Cruz de Ferro. The track mostly followed the road, and at one point we heard an extraordinary noise, like the breathing of a mechanical dragon or perhaps an ancient Bolton and …

Tex Mex on the Camino

It was a late start from Murias de Rechivaldo which meant we met an extraordinary man. It was overcast outside and 0800AM inside. Breakfast was toast and coffee. I decided I would start giving Albergue breakfasts a miss. But this was different. The Belgian had walked various Camino routes since …

Passing Astorga

Breakfast at Santibanez de Valdeiglesias was good. We walked with our US friends, Joanne and Fumi, as far as Astorga where they were going to stay. We passed a pilgrim memorial – we pass these almost every day, each one different, and each dedicated to a pilgrim who lost his or …

A long bridge and a fiesta

We set off early from Villar de Mazariffe, aiming to reach Santibanez de Valdeiglesias via the Puente de Orbigo. Again taking the alternative route – and from a quick count as we took the turnoff, it appeared that perhaps only about 5% take the alternative route, with most people continuing …

Hobbit houses, then on to Villar de Mazariffe

It was a bit misty and overcast as we made our way to the outskirts of Leon. At Virgen del Camino we stopped for breakfast overlooking the industrial outer suburbs of Leon. The Tortilla patata was rich and the coffee smooth. Both would give us energy for the walk ahead. On …

Leon – Hogworts, a museum, and the weight of history

A rest day provided time to visit the laundromat and to walk around photographing the delightful city of Leon. Who knew that Hogworts was here in Northern Spain? The Casa de Botines was designed by Gaudi in an exaggerated Gothic style like a Disney caricature of a medieval castle. It …